Q.     What is the training philosophy of MondouCu Animal Training?

A.     Our trainers’ goal is to have every animal that we train remain in the current home for the remainder of the animal’s life.  There is a high level of personal investment given on the part of our trainers to every client we accept. 

Q.     How much will it cost to train my animal?

A.     Training costs differ depending upon the circumstance.  Evaluations are necessary prior to in-home training to develop the correct training plan for your family. Some situations are minor problems that the family can implement change within their home without further trainer involvement. In some situations there are major issues to be addressed, which require ongoing professional intervention. The cost of evaluation is $75.00 + mileage.* The cost of highly specialized behavior modification can exceed $950.00 depending upon the circumstance and/or the clients’ training goals.  This question is perhaps our head trainers biggest “pet peeve”, typically her response is, “Well, how much is the new carpet, furniture or lawsuit going to cost?”  Overall, training is less expensive and has greater rewards than letting the animals’ behavior destroy the home and family unit.

Q.     So, you’re gonna charge me 75 bucks for some evaluation to come and look at my dog/cat/horse?

A.     Yes, we will look.  We also ask questions to get background information; we get as much information about the situation and the many, many factors that make up the whole picture, from a professional, outsider’s point of view.  We ask for clients’ training goals and suggest training goals if the client is uncertain as to the “right” thing to do. We determine effective learning style and training methods for the animal’s personality, needs, and temperament.  Clients receive a full written evaluation that the client and the veterinarian can understand, along with recommendations and a quote for the cost of training.

Q.     Can’t you just tell me what to do over the phone?

A.     Nope! Unfortunately we are not equipped with telepathy, and without being able to see, hear and sense the situation, and overall picture, we would rather give no advise than to give the exact wrong advise, based upon partial information from a telephone call.

Q.     But, don’t you train dogs?

A.     Absolutely, of course, 100%.  We also educate people. We can handle, or “train” a dog to do what we ask, but if the person who pets the dog gets nipped, the person who walks the dog gets pulled, and the person who feeds the dog gets growled at, then WHAT is the point of having animals behave perfectly for our trainers?  They should behave for their people.  We are not involved with training and education in order to “boost our own egos”. Now, that being said, there are times when our trainers will take control of the situation to keep everyone safe, and to educate the animal.  We are professionals for a reason.

Q.     I don’t want my animal anymore, can you help?

A.     For a while, we said, “yes”.  But, the answer is, “NO”.   If your animal is driving you crazy with bad behavior, call us. If you are concerned for the safety of the general public, call us, but if it is a simple matter that you don’t “want” you dog due to a move or a “lack of time”, we are unwilling to assist. We are NOT a rescue organization. You took the animal into your home, you chose to give him/her a life, and we will not contribute to society’s “disposable animal disease”.  If you don’t “want” your animal anymore, euthanize him/her. If you don’t want your dog’s MISBEHAVIORS any more, contact us, we will help you train him/her. Our goal is to keep animals with their families.

Q.     I’m moving, my animal does __(insert bad behavior)___ now, and I don’t want that to happen at my new home, what should I do?

A.     First, good for you!  You decided to become pro-active in your happiness. Second, make certain your animal is in good health. Third, make certain the transition to the new home is a good transition. Fourth, implement training NOW, before the move occurs.

Q.     How do I keep my cat off counters?

A.     Tin foil works best.  Keep countertops clean and free of food/crumbs, and provide the cat with a perch, or special elevated place to allow the cat to view the world from above.

Q.     I just got a new puppy, what should I do?

A.     See our “New Puppy” page.

Q.     I just got a puppy/kitten and now my (current animal) is acting strange, what should I do?

A.     First of all, take time to find out how your relationship with your current animal changed when your new animal come into the house.  Did your new puppy/kitten just “steal” your other animal’s territory or possessions? Is your current animal trying to KILL the intruder, or TEACH the New Kid how to behave?  If in doubt, contact us, it is better to have an evaluation done earlier than later. Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of intervention.

Q.     Do you train...

A.     Dogs - YES  Cats - YES  Horses - YES  Rodents - NO  Reptiles - NO Birds - EVAL. ONLY

Q.     My animal is my baby, training isn’t going to hurt my baby, is it?

A.     Training should never be inhumane or too “tough” for the individual animal; however it should also not be too soft. Unfortunately, many times over the years, we have seen “baby” be a dominant, aggressive animal that needs to be educated because she id running around, ruling the house and the entire family is suffering because of her behaviors.  If you don’t like to see the child who screams at her mother in the store, why would you let your animal get away with the same thing?

Q.     My cat is eliminating everywhere except in her litter-box, can you help?

A.     Yes, we can help solve the behavior IF you have taken her to the veterinarian to make certain there is NO health issue.

Q.     When out walking, my dog pulls and won’t heel, what do I need to do?

A.     Upon further investigation into this question, we often find that the dog is being walked on a Gentle Leader, Halti, flimsy harness or worst of all a retractable leash. If you want your dog to be under control, teach your dog to WANT to be WITH you. Set your expectations and then TEACH your dog how to live up to your expectations.

Q.     Do you clicker train?

A.     Typically, No.  There are certain circumstances where we use clickers, but they are used for specific reasons.

Q.     I want the individuality of in-home training, but need to watch costs... Do you have any suggestions?

A.     This is the exact reason we chose to open a facility where we can hold group training.  Although our facilities are large, our class sizes will remain smaller. Clients are welcome to meet with their trainer after class to review individualized goals.  Remember to TIP your trainer, this is her time.

Q.     My horse refuses to load, can you help?

A.     Yes, we can help. Unfortunately, it is not a “quick fix”.  It will take several sessions to reduce fear and anxiety, and to re-teach the loading pattern.

Q.     I took my dog to the dog park the other day and...

A.     Dog parks could be great places, if all owners were paying attention to their dog at all times and were willing to EITHER correct their dogs’ misbehavior OR allow another dog to correct the misbehavior. Dogs play in different ways.  If you know how to “read” your dog’s body language, the body language of other dogs, AND know how to interrupt a potential problem before someone gets hurt, then you and your dog may be good candidates for a dog park. Even though dog parks are “neutral territory”, dogs still have a “pack leader”, someone who is obviously “in charge of this place”. If you want your dog to learn to socialize with other dogs, bring him to training, join our club or enroll in a good dog daycare twice a week.

Q.     I have a Sporting Group dog who’s been through group training and still being naughty at home; I just don’t know what to do.

A.     Unfortunately, the Sporting Group gets the worst rap for this.  This “Group” is called the “Sporting Group” for a reason. These dogs are NOT couch dogs. They work hard and play hard.  They have a lot of energy and need a way to spend that energy. If you are not an energetic person who wants to take your dog everywhere with you, don’t choose one of these dogs for your home. If you already have one, well, it’s time to suck it up and join an organization that will expend your dogs energy.

Q.     My neighbor’s dog...

A.     Ok, you said it was your NEIGHBOR’S dog.  As much as we may agree with you, we are NOT going to call your neighbor for you, nor can we advise you of what to say to your neighbor, since we have not seen the situation.  If you think your neighbor is breaking the law, report it.  If you think your neighbor is being un-neighborly, tell her.  Just remember, if you start the war with your neighbor, you have to remain her neighbor (or move).

Q.     My dog jumps...

A.     Sorry to cut you off. Stop him!  If you can’t, then we will. Jumping on people, over fences, etc is a terrible habit that can cause ill feelings between your friends, family and neighbors - it can also potentially get you in legal trouble.  Yes, it is ILLEGAL for a dog to jump on a person in many counties! 

Q.     My cat hides from everyone except...

A.     This is fear/anxiety behavior.  Depending upon the root of the behavior it is likely correctable. The younger the cat, the easier it is to correct the behavior and give the cat a normal life.

Q.     My horse bolts from the barn.

A.     This behavior is curable, but will take lots of time and work.  You MUST be stronger willed than your 1200# horse to overcome this obstacle.

Q.     Where can I go to “work” my dog?

A.     HERE!!! We offer training classes as well as CLUB activities.  Check out our services page for more information.

Q.     I want a protection trained dog, can you do that?

A.     Yes.  We train a dog under the SDA guidelines.  However, we will NOT do bite training with “just anyone’s” dog.

Q.     What is the mileage* charge?

A.     Unfortunately, it changes due to the fluctuating cost of gasoline.  As of this update, our mileage* charge is $0.65/mile.  Don’t yell at us, yell at the Oil industry.